Thanks for stopping! Over the past 40 years I’ve probably towed a trailer (behind a pickup) several hundred thousand miles. I share that only so you know I’ve got some credibility when it comes to towing, loads, trucks, etc. I’ve had my share of educational break downs i.e. flats, bad bearings, loads shifted, broken springs, broken spring mounts, and one black ice related wreck where the trailer tipped over but the load stayed on it. None of these are to brag about, but they represent a LOT of education, and I’ve figured out a LOT of stuff to do differently with my trailers than many people. Some of these tips are in the TIPS section.

The history behind the ballgreaser is simple. With some of her inheritance my wife Rhonda bought a 24’ RV trailer. We’d never had one before, so we relied on our daughter in law (Tracy) to help us with LOTS of the considerations. We didn’t know the questions to ask, let alone the answers! Anyway, we bought one and we love it!

After we bought it, I started to tinker. The first obvious thing to me was the dirt that the tires throw up on the stabilizing jacks, so I invented the Jack Flaps (see the pictures). The next thing was the generator “rack” that hung off the back of the trailer. The unit that came with the trailer was truly a “one size fits none”, so I came up with a GREAT rack that tightly holds two Yamaha generators (see the pictures). I haven’t finished the rack for the Honda generators yet. The thing about this rack is that you never have to take the generators out of the rack, except for maintenance. You can check the fuel level, fuel them, and connect them electrically without taking the lock off of them. They are designed to allow FULL flow through ventilation as Yamaha designed them.

The third thing I came up with was the ballgreaser. I screwed up the first one because I drilled into the dome of the coupler toward the front, where the ball touches it. The first time I towed it, the ball popped the grease fitting out. I fixed that, then drilled the hole into the immediate TOP. There, the flat spot on the top of the ball NEVER touches, and consequently there is never any load on the zerk other than grease. It has been in there for a long time, and just fine.

So, why grease your ball? You spent a LOT of money on your trailer! NOT greasing the connection wears on the ball, and it wears on the coupler. At every turn (literally), the ball is wearing on the inside of the coupler. This wear probably won’t ever cause the coupler to jump off the ball, but as it wears it will continue to get sloppier and louder. The older and more worn it gets, the more it will rattle and clank. Why NOT do the right thing? EVERY other steel to steel connection on every piece of equipment ever made is lubricated. It only makes sense to do it here, too! Make your grandpa proud!

Trailer Ball Greaser Introduction and Installation

In the real world, how many people actually grease the coupler ball connection? Almost nobody because it is such a mess to do! In 47 years of towing a trailer I NEVER did it. I didn’t know that I needed to do it. Nobody taught me to do it, and that doing it would keep from wearing out the trailer coupler. Replacing a ball is easy. Replacing the coupler on your trailer involves a welding shop, cutting torches, grinders, and welding machines. It is NOT quick, easy, or cheap!

We have solved the whole problem with a VERY quick and VERY easy product called the… you guessed it……..the BALL GREASER!(patent pending) This system is going to take about 90 seconds to install, and you only have to install it once. It makes quick and clean coupler/ball greasing EASY!

The trailer coupler grease zerk installation kit includes almost everything you need to grease your trailer coupler:

  1. A properly sized drill bit,
  2. A properly sized grease zerk, and
  3. The grease zerk installation tool custom machined for THIS specific grease zerk.

You will also need a drill motor and a hammer, not included.

Installation is a simple four step process! Detailed instructions come in the package.

  1. Use the supplied drill to drill a hole in the very top of your coupler.
  2. Insert the ball end of the grease zerk into the Installation Tool
  3. Line the end of the grease zerk up with the hole in the coupler
  4. Smack it in with a hammer!

That’s all there is to it! When your trailer is hooked to your tow vehicle, 4-5 pumps of grease will fill the void over the top of the ball, and set you up for the first trip. After the first time a couple of pumps should be all you need.

This is a new product, so the most reliable place to buy it will be here and now, from us! We hope to have it on the shelf with many trailer and auto parts dealers in the near future.